Hot Hot Hot goes East 2024

Travelling via several Middle Eastern hubs and (some) visiting various exotic locations en route, 16 intrepid travellers from HOEOCA convened in the heat at Phuket Yacht Haven on 13 March 2024. We were to join a flotilla organised by Seafarer Flotilla and Sailing Holidays although saw nothing of them until the following day. In the meantime, we liaised with the charter companies and, as advised, visited the Tesco/Lotus supermarket by taxi to undertake serious stocking up. Beer was cheap but wine and spirits very expensive. It seemed an awful lot of water too.

The first briefing took place at 9am on the Thursday morning in the comfort of the air-conditioned marina restaurant, our first chance to observe our fellow travellers. The flotilla consisted of a lead boat, Southern Star, with 4 cabin charter guests on board, our 3 boats (Chinon 2, Diana and Iyarada) and 4 others. A total of 38 people. Our flotilla skipper was Marcus and his mate, George, a cheery Greek. 

Day 1 was to be a 20NM voyage. We set off down the channel with quite a current against us. The area is quite tidal so this affected our plans and we were going to go anti-clockwise rather than the published clockwise route. We were able to have a lunch stop between Koh (Island) Nakha Yai and Koh Nakha Noi but no swimming due to a huge amount of jellyfish being present. This was a real shame as the weather was consistently very hot (35˚) and sticky, everyone sailed with their Biminis up throughout.

Onward to Koh Yao Yai where, with little guidance, we anchored off the right beach with quite a strong onshore breeze. A welcome cocktail party was to be held on the beach, so we all christened our dinghies and somehow got ashore in breaking waves with the sun setting, again with no assistance, not an easy experience given the slope of the beach. G&Ts on the beach and then we all repaired to a restaurant for an expensive (550THB plus drinks) but very plentiful meal with a selection of several starters and main courses.

Friday’s destination was to be Koh Phi Phi, probably the best known of these islands. Having damaged our outboard, the previous evening we were most surprised to have the guys from Asia Marine come alongside mid-channel to provide a replacement. What great service. Diana was also having problems with their engine coolant and Iyarada with their battery. The lead crew tried to help but the boats were ultimately chartered from a third party on our behalf and so solutions had to come from there.

Anchorages were in Monkey Bay (in 15M) or off the town itself. No jellyfish here so swimming and snorkelling took place, bliss. There are real monkeys apparently although not seen. The approach to go ashore to town was horrendously rocky as the tide was low and so dinner was on board. What we saw of Phi Phi was pretty unappetising. Cannabis and tattoos more easily obtained than fresh food. It is the nearest place to Maya Bay which is used in the 1996 film The Beach and has become a centre for young back packers.

We were able to see The Beach itself on our next leg south, along with many tourists in long-tail boats. Some stunning scenery, you can see why it was chosen. Onward toward Kang Tiang bay on Koh Lanta. Quite a little community with a 7-Eleven and a great fruit and veg shop, not that we knew what everything was. We were all booked to eat together at a long table at the Why Not Bar and Restaurant on the beach and were entertained by fire eaters.

A motor sailing morning toward Koh Ngai for a beautiful lunch and swim stop including some more snorkelling. Then onto Koh Muk, an idyllic spot, less touristy than the likes of Phi Phi with a selection of food stalls. In our bay there was one large restaurant where Diana and Chinon 2 dined on a big veranda overlooking the Andaman Sea. A fantastic location to watch another beautiful sunset.

In the morning, some crew went to Emerald Cave to swim through a dark tunnel to reach the Hong. Others took a tut-tut to the settlement on the other side of the island - there was just about a road there. Several supermarkets, all with similar, very limited stock and, amazingly, a bakery with proper bread. Bread does not really form part of the Thai diet so was predominantly sliced, sweet and very insubstantial. The island is part of a National Park and so the Rangers were out collecting their dues, I am afraid we'd been advised by the lead crew to hide a few people.

Time to head back north and a return to Koh Lanta but to Klong Nin, a different resort where, again, we were anchored off a long sandy beach.  Iyarada got lucky with a restaurant serving BBQ'd food, including fabulous whole fish, Chinon 2, following on, missed out on the fish and (after a very long wait) had to settle for chicken, prawns, jacket potatoes and sweetcorn which were all excellent.

A great sail in an easterly toward Koh Pu, a fishing settlement on stilts. A lovely little island where fishing, rubber and a bit of tourism are the mainstays of the economy. A group meal was held at Mr Boys Restaurant, arriving by dinghy, you climbed up a sloping ladder of bamboo. The buffet dinner proved somewhat chaotic, sporadic and sparse, but the setting was sublime and the cocktails plentiful. A good chance for all the crews to socialise.

An opportunity in the morning for a last bit of food shopping (had we known would have bought more!) in several mini markets. Getting supplies for breakfast and lunch proved to be challenging throughout the trip, and there were only a couple of taps along the way to replenish water via jerry cans and on a dinghy. Ice, though, was usually available delivered in huge sacks. As well as the normal fridge, the boats were supplied with a cool box which kept drinks cold on deck for ease of access in the very hot conditions.

Force 4/5 winds made for a rollicking sail north to Rei Ley under just the genoa. Rai Ley is a peninsula featuring stunning limestone cliffs. There are just 4 beaches and it’s only accessible by boat, hence the continual coming and going of long-tail boats. It’s quite a touristy place with lots of restaurants and bars, many of which have an upstairs spanning the narrow street, so you have a good opportunity to spy on the diners on the other side!

28NM to do today so a prompt start to motor past beautiful Koh Hong & Koh Pakbia as there was little wind. Most took a lunch-stop at Koh Roi, another stunning setting. Another Koh Hong, our last night at anchor and what a beautiful place for it, although with no facilities ashore. However, local canoeists were available to take people into the caves, at a price. By this stage, supplies were running short and water, beer and wine was bartered. Most had taken the skippers advice and bought dinner from the restaurants the night before to eat on board.

We were close to the James Bond Islands featured in The Man with the Golden Gun so many took the opportunity to visit them the next day before the sad last lunch-stop, some swimming but some jellyfish, and return to base, fuelling en route. A group meal that evening at The Woodfired Bar and Grill and then time to say goodbye, some to return direct to the UK and some to extend the trip by a few days.

Total Mileage 220NM

Good bits – stunning scenery, sea and swimming. Lovely people. Quite an adventure ….

Not so good bits – Lack of on-shore facilities. Jellyfish