Hot Hot Hot 2024

In preparation for our mini flotilla, a large advance party, 12 of the 23 expected crew, arrived in Skiathos by both boat and plane, on various dates and stayed at a wide range of accommodation on the island. On the Thursday night we all managed to convene in Skiathos Town for drinks and dinner and to discuss the news that, despite our joining instructions saying that we wouldn’t be allowed onto the boats on the Friday until 1700, the local management wanted us off the town quay by 1600. Somewhat of a conundrum!

Accordingly, those present assembled on the bumpy concrete pontoon the following morning and managed to victual the boats, check inventory and undertake handovers prior to the arrival of the remaining crew who landed at 1300. Happily, the airport is very close by, in fact planes take off on a very short runway over the port, so they arrived promptly, and we were able to do as required and start our voyage a day earlier than expected.

At the suggestion of Babis of Athenian Yacht Charters, we motored in a gentle westerly to Ormos Panormou on Skopelos, about 8Nm away. This beautiful pine-lined rectangular bay was completely sheltered from any threatened overnight wind. Our chartered Sun Odysseys Lara, Endeavour and Nimertis, joined by ubulukutu, a Hanse owned by Mark and Cathie Stansfield, had an unexpected early practice at anchoring and taking a line ashore which maximises space. Dinghies were launched and Lara made it ashore although with a deflating dinghy. Endeavour tried and failed due to an empty petrol tank so the rest ate on board and crews got to know one another.

Early morning swims and the first of many delicious Greek yogurt and fruit breakfasts was marred by the sound of a chainsaw and meant we left our anchorage quicker than we might have for a short hop to the island of Alonnisos. Sails were raised and lowered, sailing attempted but motors resorted to reach Patitiri. The wise went straight there and secured moorings stern to on the quay, Endeavour had a swim, was late and had to park illegally alongside at the far end, although they let us stay.

There must have been something in the air as the island saw two reunions, the first by yours truly with her oldest friend, Debbie, who lives in Sydney and was on holiday with husband Mike. The second, Nettie, friend of Nina, who ran Demis Restaurant up in the old town, or Chora, along with her partner, and where we were all welcomed for dinner. The local bus provided an interesting ride with stunning views down either side of the island and we enjoyed an excellent evening with a variety of musical entertainment with some returning later than others to the bar in the port and a somewhat late night!

Our next destination, Steni Vala, was only about 5Nm north but a stiff wind had got up and so our boats took varying advantage of this to sail. Steni Vala is a pretty little fishing village where the three charter boats went stern to whilst ubulukutu anchored around the corner. An afternoon of swimming off the two beaches, catching up with friends on other crews, visiting the “Supermarket” and queuing for the somewhat primitive shower at Karos Bar was enjoyed as was dinner at one of the several restaurants as well as on board.

Happily, despite grey clouds the following morning, the weather looked kind enough for a visit to the National Marine Park and so we went online to buy the necessary permits. Fluky winds up the channel between Alonnisos and Peristera before opening out and some reasonable sailing toward Monastery Bay for Lara and Endeavour for a swim and lunch stop in lovely surroundings on the east side of the island. Then on to stunning Ormos Planitis on the top end of the island of Panayia where we anchored for the night along with a dozen other yachts. Much socialising between boats by both dinghy and swimming before dinners on board and a reasonably early night.

Time to turn back south so, after swims, we weighed anchor and three boats motored and sailed down the west coast admiring the coastlines of Panayia and Alonnisos. The Sporades are quite northerly and enjoy a reasonable rainfall (of which more later) so there is plenty of greenery. Nimertis sailed along the east coast of Panayia, continuing south to Skantzoura, for a lunch stop in Limani Bay. Our destination was Skopelos Town, a large harbour, busy with yachts, ferries and tripper boats.

Mooring wasn’t helped by the presence of a Sailing Holidays flotilla but the charter boats all found somewhere (ubulukutu had opted to stay on Alonnisos). This ancient capital town is well worth a visit, and many climbed up into the old town for the views. Skopelos is, of course, where Mamma Mia was mainly filmed, although Skiathos and California also feature. There was water on the quayside and a good supermarket for necessary topping up. The crew of Lara celebrated their first of 2 birthdays of the week (Chris) with cake, a meal out and live music.

Rain overnight. We were all given (Greek!) deadlines to leave, apparently to avoid the wash from the incoming Flying Dolphin. So a prompt start into not very promising looking weather, rain and thunderstorms having been forecast for several days. And about an hour later we were hit by a big squall which necessitated ferreting for fleeces and shower proofs and a period of virtually zero visibility, a chance for those who like a helming challenge to keep the boats sailing in the right direction. Sadly, we missed the Mamma Mia church.

Luckily, the weather passed over and we were able to continue to Loutraki where we moored up to a real pontoon and exchanged stories of high adventures whilst especially appreciating a dry lunch. It’s rare for Rod Heikell, who writes the Greek Waters Pilot, to recommend a restaurant but the four of us who had visited this area in 2008 remembered that it had been a good experience (we remembered very little else!) and so a series of taxis took Lara, Endeavour and ubulukutu up to Glossa where we dined at Agnati Restaurant, a very different Greek dining experience with fantastic views down to the boats and across to Skiathos. The décor is sophisticated, the service excellent, the food and wine delicious, even if the wine is expensive.

More rain overnight and into the morning meant we delayed leaving as long as possible to make our way back to Skiathos. The crew of Lara got up early to decorate the boat for Jude II's big birthday and started the celebrations with a champagne breakfast. Some stopped for lunch and a last swim. At least on this occasion we were fastened to a more stable wall! In view of the birthday, Lara kindly hosted a final drinks party before we all headed for a final meal together after what had been a great trip. As has become the custom, some stayed on for another few days to see a bit more of the island and enjoy the weather before returning home to a cold and very wet UK.

Words Judy Lambourne

Pictures Mary Coles